Louis Erard 78 225 AA 01 – 1931 Vintage Chronograph


by Adrian Herscovici  

A Fitting Salute to 1931

Louis Erard WatchesIn 1931 Louis Erard and his eponymous Swiss company began making watches. Eighty years later the brand introduced its 1931 collection to pay homage to those early days. The 1931 collection includes watches that illustrate much of what was important to the brand then, and now: they balance tradition, sophistication and dependability. The Vintage Chronograph Reference 78 225 AA 01, a limited edition of 500 pieces, is a fine example.

Buy Louis Erard 78225AA01 1931 Vintage Chronograph WatchLouis Erard uses mechanical movements in its watches. The Vintage Chronograph contains the Swiss made ETA Valjoux 7750. For anyone unfamiliar, the 25-jewel Valjoux 7750 is among the most widely used automatic chronograph movements today. It operates by way of a three-cam system (as opposed to a column wheel) and is noted for being reliable and easy to service. In addition to the chronograph function, it features a quick-set day and date.

To get a glimpse of the 7750 in action, simply turn the watch over: the movement, including the customized oscillating weighted rotor with Geneva Stripes decoration, is visible through an exhibition caseback. The caseback also features the watch’s limited edition number (008/500) engraved into the case.

Louis Erard 78225AA01 1931 Vintage Chronograph – Front and Back
Louis Erard 78225AA01 1931 Vintage Chronograph - Front and Back
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Configuration of the sub-dials is characteristic of the 7750 movement, with 30-minute and 12-hour totalizers at 12 and 6 o’clock respectively, and a running small-seconds sub-dial at 9 o’clock. The day and date apertures appear at 3 o’clock.

The dial itself is balanced, tasteful and well detailed. The use of railroad-track-patterned rings is both visually stimulating and useful in delineating the sub-dials; i.e., the small-seconds track has 60 indexes whereas the indexes of the chronograph sub-dials are spaced wider apart to record minute and hour increments; the dial’s outer track measures passing minutes and chronograph seconds. Serifed Arabic numerals, blue hands and arrowheads add strong vintage appeal.

A few modern attributes indicate that this Vintage Chronograph is in fact a contemporary piece. For one, the stainless steel case is 42.5 mm in diameter (vintage watches are typically smaller), and the crystal is sapphire with anti-reflective coating on both sides. Elegances include curved and polished lugs, a polished bezel and crown, and polished caps on the chronograph pushers. The attractive black leather padded strap features cream stitching and a prong buckle.

Louis Erard delivers each of the 500 Vintage Chronograph watches in a special presentation box that includes a seal, sealing wax and vintage stationery.

Louis Erard 78225AA01 1931 Vintage Chronograph Box
Louis Erard 1931 Vintage Chronograph Box
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What remains in this discussion of the Vintage Chronograph Reference 78 225 AA 01 is its cost, and the good news is that Louis Erard is committed to offering its watches at affordable prices. Even with its value-added refinements and Swiss made automatic movement, the Vintage Chronograph can be had for a lot less than you might think. Contact an authorized dealer today to inquire.

Louis Erard 78 225 AA 01 – 1931 Vintage Chronograph Watch

Buy Louis Erard 78225AA01 1931 Vintage Chronograph WatchKey Features:

  • Swiss made timepiece
  • Swiss ETA Valjoux 7750 automatic calibre movement, decorated oscillating weight
  • Stainless steel case, diameter 42.5 mm, transparent engraved caseback
  • Silver toned dial, day and date window at 3 o’clock, hour and minute counters at 6 and 12 o’clock, small seconds at 9
  • Chronograph function
  • Anti-reflective sapphire crystal
  • Black leather strap, cream topstiching, pin buckle
  • 500 piece limited edition
  • Delivered in special box with seal, wax and vintage stationary
  • Water resistant to 165 feet
  • 2-year manufacturer’s warranty

Gevril Group US Agent for Louis Erard Watches

Gevril GroupGevril Group is the sole US agent for Louis Erard Watches. Contact Gevril Group by email or call 845-425-9882.

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Louis Erard 80 231 OR01 Excellence Moon Phase Chronograph Gold Watch


by Adrian Herscovici  

Enlightened, Haute and Extraordinary

Louis Erard WatchesThe Excellence collection from Louis Erard was introduced on the 80th anniversary of the company in 2011. To ensure this new collection remained faithful to the brand’s values, Louis Erard followed this proven recipe: strive to design timeless classics, stay committed to the traditions of haute horology and offer the brand’s watches at affordable prices – in all, a rare triad among Swiss mechanical watchmakers.

One jewel in the Excellence collection is Reference 80 231 OR01, a chronograph with a triple calendar, GMT and moon phase housed in a rose gold case. At the heart of the watch is a Swiss made ETA Valjoux 7751 automatic movement beating at 28,800 vibrations per hour, with 25 jewels, an Etachron regulator and a stop-second mechanism. The assembly of the 7751 supports an orderly design by overlapping the complications on the sub-dials.

Louis Erard 80 231 OR01 Excellence Chronograph
Louis Erard 80231OR01 Excellence Chronograph
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The chronograph is comprised of a central seconds hand, a 30-minute totalizer at 12 o’clock and 12-hour totalizer at 6 o’clock. The sub-dial at 9 o’clock is home to the constant seconds register and the GMT function, which features a hand with an arrowhead pointing to a corresponding 24-hour scale.

Three separate apertures within the other two sub-dials display the day, date and moon phase. The pointer-date hand stems from the central pivot and has a crescent shaped tip that edges the date printed on the rehaut. (Quick corrections of the day, date and month are easily managed with inset pushers on the side of the case.)

On the dial, thin Roman numerals, some of which are pruned by the sub-dials, allow the dial to remain bright and open. The Romans also create an air of antiquity, as do the blued hands. Recessed sub-dials also contribute to the well-ordered design. The dial is a silvered white and covered by a large sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both sides.

The exquisite polished case is made of a full 70 g of 18k rose gold and measures 42 mm in diameter; its design is marked by simplicity, as any fine dress watch should be. The lugs, too, have no extraneous parts and jut purposefully from the case to accommodate the genuine crocodile leather strap, which has an 18k rose gold pin buckle. The caseback, also in rose gold, is secured by four screws and decorated with the emblem “LE” embossed in a script font along with the commemorative year “1931″.

Louis Erard 80 231 OR01 Excellence Moon Phase Chronograph 24-Hour 18k Rose Gold Watch

Key Features:

  • Swiss made timepiece
  • Swiss ETA Valjoux 7751 automatic calibre movement
  • Round 18k rose gold case, diameter 42 mm, decorated caseback
  • Silver toned dial, day and date window at 12 o’clock
  • Chronograph function, moon phases at 6 o’clock
  • Anti-reflective sapphire crystal
  • Genuine brown crocodile-pattern leather band with 18k rose gold pin buckle
  • Water resistant to 165 feet
  • 2-year manufacturer’s warranty

Like others in the Excellence collection, this watch has both classic and modern attributes. Its appearance, its inner workings and its case are characteristic of watches found in the upper echelon of Swiss made timepieces, but it remains available at a relatively modest price. Louis Erard is firmly committed to this principle of mixing classic design with haute horology and affordability. Contact an authorized dealer today for further details about this extraordinary gold timepiece.

Gevril Group US Agent for Louis Erard Watches

Gevril GroupGevril Group is the sole US agent for Louis Erard Watches. Contact Gevril Group by email or call 845-425-9882.

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Fortis 701.10.81 K F-43 Flieger Limited Edition Diver Chronograph


by Meehna Goldsmith  

Fortis WatchesBecause the dive watch is such a popular choice of tool watch, the Flieger, which is also a tool watch, could be overlooked as wrist wear that offers an alternate and very sleek style. The German’s developed the Flieger, which is German for pilot’s watch, in World War II for their pilots as an instrument for navigation in the cockpit. Five companies fulfilled the contract: Lange & Sohne, International Watch Company, Laco, Stowa and Wempe.

Inspired by the Flieger, the new Fortis 701.10.81.K F-43 Flieger Chronograph limited edition watch uses a classic layout on a black dial. There were two types of dials that were acceptable to German specifications on the Flieger watch. The Men’s 701.10.81.K F-43 Flieger Chronograph watch opts for the Type A (Baumuster A) used from 1940 to January 1941, an arrangement employing illuminated hands and white Arabic numerals with a triangle surrounded by dots representing 12 o’clock. The reason for the triangle instead of an Arabic numeral was to allow pilots to orient the watch in the correct position when night fell.

Fortis 701.10.81.K F-43 Flieger Chronograph
Fortis 701.10.81.K F-43 Flieger Limited Edition Chronograph
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The original German Flieger only required the time element without complications. The Fortis 701.10.81.K F-43 Flieger Chronograph is a modern interpretation, so it builds in more functionality to the watch. In addition to the clear view of the time, it has the added feature of a chronograph aesthetically placed with minutes, running seconds and hours respectively at 12 o’clock, 9 o’clock and 6 o’clock. It also provides the day and date opposite each other at 9 o’clock and 3 o’clock. As an added bonus for car nuts, Fortis also inserted a tachymeter on the flange. In other words, the Fortis 701.10.81.K packs a punch of useful tasks in one package.

In a modern-sized 43 mm case composed of durable stainless steel with a nice grippy crown and chronograph pushers in the 2 and 4 o’clock position, the Fortis 701.10.81.K F-43 Flieger Chronograph Watch comes on a black rubber strap with a push button deployant clasp. Its automatic movement is on view through the sapphire crystal caseback. No worries with most water activities, as the watch is water resistant to 660 feet.

Fortis 701.10.81 K F-43 Flieger Limited Edition Diver Chronograph

Key features:

  • Swiss made timepiece
  • Limited edition of 2012 pieces
  • Swiss automatic self-wind movement
  • Stainless steel case, diameter 43 mm, thickness 16 mm
  • Black dial, superluminova luminous color, day and date functions
  • Exhibition caseback
  • Chronograph function
  • Shock absorber function
  • Anti-reflective sapphire crystal
  • Stationary stainless steel bezel with tachymeter
  • Black rubber band, width 20 mm, push button deployment clasp
  • Water resistant to 660 feet
  • 2-year manufacturer’s warranty

For a tool watch that stands a bit apart from the crowd and has just as much cool history, the Fortis 701.10.81.K F-43 Flieger Chronograph Watch is a fashionable and functional option. Purchased your Fortis watch from an authorized Fortis dealer.

Gevril Group US, Canada and Caribbean Fortis Watches Agent

Gevril GroupGevril Group is the sole US, Canada and Caribbean agent for Fortis Watches and the official Fortis watch repair service center. Contact us by email or by calling 845-425-9882.

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Fortis 656.18.81.K B-42 Flieger Automatic Black Dial Chronograph


by Meehna Goldsmith  

Fortis WatchesA Flieger watch is a pilot’s or aviator’s watch that was developed in 1942 in Germany for pilots during the World War II to assist in navigation. The original brands commissioned by the German government to make these watches were Lange & Sohne, International Watch Company, Laco, Stowa and Wempe.

Buy Fortis Men's 656.18.81.K B-42 Flieger Chronograph WatchFortis has the know-how and history to build a superb Flieger watch with their impressive history in spaceflight. They are the official watch for the cosmonauts in the Russian space program, so Fortis knows how to craft tough and durable watches that are trusted not only to provide function but also hold up in conditions when survival is on the line. And that’s why its B-42 Flieger 656.18.81.K stands out from the competition.

For a Flieger watch the dial layout and visibility are crucial elements to the design. And while there are specific guidelines, not every company can design one that can meet the standards for professional conditions. The swiss made Fortis 656.18.81.K B-42 Flieger watch nails it.

As required, Arabic numerals punctuate the dial in a size large enough to easily see without overwhelming the dial. A telltale sign of a Flieger watch is the triangle with two dots on each side marking 12 o’clock. This design element was incorporated to allow the pilot to know when the dial was in the proper upper orientation at night and also served the function of a solar compass. All the hands and markers are lumed so they glow in low light conditions.

The Fortis 656.18.81.K watch builds in the added functionality of a chronograph with running seconds at 9 o’clock, 30 minute counter at 12 o’clock and 12 hour counter at 6 o’clock. If that weren’t enough, the watch includes day and date seen respectively at 9 o’clock and 3 o’clock. Fortis added a smart and useful detail by putting a triangle on the date to highlight its position. Without protective coating, the best dial layouts are lost in the glare. The B-42 Flieger 656.18.81.K coats the sapphire crystal on both sides to eliminate this potential problem.

Fortis 656.18.81.K B-42 Flieger – Deployment Clasp
Fortis 656.18.81.K B-42 Flieger - Back View
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By putting the B-42 Flieger 656.18.81.K in a 42 mm black coated stainless steel case, it has a stealthy look that also happens to be on trend. Black watches are a popular choice for both tool and fashion watches so this one can straddle both worlds. As required for a Flieger watch, the Fortis 656.18.81.K B-42 Flieger is punctuated with a large crown, which was required for pilots to be able to wind the watch with gloves on.

If worn consistently, the Fortis 656.18.81.K doesn’t need to be wound as it contains an automatic movement with a fine timing device and incabloc shock absorber to protect it and keep it on precision time. The movement can be seen through the sapphire caseback. The watch straps to the wrist with a matching black rubber strap with a deployment clasp and is water resistant to 660 feet, which makes this a versatile watch for land, sky and sea.

Fortis 656.18.81.K B-42 Flieger Automatic Black Dial Chronograph

Buy Fortis Men's 656.18.81.K B-42 Flieger Chronograph WatchKey features:

  • Swiss made timepiece
  • Swiss automatic self-wind movement
  • Stainless steel case, diameter 42 mm, thickness 16 mm
  • Black dial, superluminova luminous color
  • Chronograph function
  • Anti-reflective sapphire crystal
  • Black rubber strap, width 20 mm, deployment clasp
  • Water resistant to 660 feet
  • 2-year manufacturer’s warranty

There’s no doubt the Fortis 656.18.81.K B-42 Flieger Black Watch hits all the marks. It even won the Busse Longlife Design Award for watch of the year in 2009. Design and function together make for a killer combination.

Fortis watches may be purchased from an authorized Fortis dealer.

Gevril Group US, Canada and Caribbean Fortis Watches Agent

Gevril GroupGevril Group is the sole US, Canada and Caribbean agent for Fortis Watches and the authorized Fortis watch repair service center. Contact us by email or by calling 845-425-9882.

Join the conversation! Follow Gevril Group on Facebook, Twitter and LinkedIn. Please subscribe to the Gevril Group newsletter and blog.